take off emblems?

how do you take off the dodge letters on the rear tailgate?whats the safest way? :D

Eric, I used a pair of vice grips to pull the letters off and then i soaked the remains in lighter fluid (lighter fluid does not hurt the paint) After the glue is taken off,a good wax job, these are the hardest emblems i've ever removed. Mofo

I had my mechanic use a heat gun to soften them.Remove the glue with some elbow grease.(didn`t know about the lighter fluid) and use fill and glaze and wax.

I also ordered the Viper hood ornament to replace the Dodge one.Ordered another " Viper Powered" emblem for the left side of the tailgate.Have to decide on to remove the RAM on the doors and relocate the SRT-10 on the driver`s side.

Direct wired the V-1 too. :)

Eric, I used a pair of vice grips to pull the letters off and then i soaked the remains in lighter fluid (lighter fluid does not hurt the paint) After the glue is taken off,a good wax job, these are the hardest emblems i've ever removed. Mofo

Larry,
Did you damage the letters by removing them with the vice grips?

I'd like to remove the 'DODGE' from the tailgate, but I don't want to mess anything up.

Plan on taking about an hour out of your day to accomplish. Go get the wife's electric blow dryer. Heat the emblems up, peal off slowly. I used a little
'Goo Gone' to remove the glue. Finish with a good wax.

PS--I took everything but the SRT-10 off, it looks great.

Mike, I totaly destroyed them. Mofo

PS--I took everything but the SRT-10 off, it looks great. <--- This is what I want to do to the tailgate. I'm going to leave the doors alone for now.


Larry - LMAO. Thanks.

I de-badged my Hemi...I used plastic coated steel leader from the bait and tackle store... Pulled the leader behind the lettering and cut through the double sided tape. Then used 3M adhesive remover to get the glue off. No marks or scratches when done. Took about 3 minutes to get the letters off and about 1 hour to remove all the adhesive. Good luck. BTW some have used Goof Off to remove the remaining adhesive. All my lettering and badges are un-dammaged.

I de-badged my Hemi...I used plastic coated steel leader from the bait and tackle store... Pulled the leader behind the lettering and cut through the double sided tape. Then used 3M adhesive remover to get the glue off. No marks or scratches when done. Took about 3 minutes to get the letters off and about 1 hour to remove all the adhesive. Good luck. BTW some have used Goof Off to remove the remaining adhesive. All my lettering and badges are un-dammaged.

That's some good info too - Thanks! :cool:

DEBadged the DODGE Today! Been wanting to do it since some of you guys posted pics, and I'm Likin' It!

I used Dental Floss to remove the letters. Really didn't take long, but the floss kept snapping on me. Maybe 10 minutes - MAX.

Then I used the 3M Adhesive Remover to get the glue off. This took some time(about 1 hour), along with mucho fingernail scratching, but eventually it came clean. That's some serious glue! :eek:

Polished it up and now the tailgate looks slick! :cool: :D

Update on the new emblems:

Put on the Viper hood ornament on the left side tailgate where DODGE was.The Ram head hood ornament ,while stick on, looks like the hood is dimpled underneath for placement.I didn`t want to take a chance of pulling it off and finding a big azz dimple under there. :mad:

I put the Viper Powered on the tailgate under the SRT-10.It looks bad azz too!

When I picked up the emblems from the Chrysler dealer I got tracked down in the Parts Department by two techs ,the receptionist and two customers to look at it.When I came out there were 4 other people milling around it. :cool: :D

I need something to put on the doors so I can take the RAM off.Any suggestions?

How about 'Supercharged' ,, if you get my drift. ;) :cool: :D

No......not supercharged like the Denali. :) I need a factory hotrod that has no drama. Between the S/C Impala and the S/C Denali it is too much drama.We have to trouble shoot the problems we caused from all the mods.

With the SRT-10 just turn on the key and go.It ain`t 875 HP,but it IS running now . :)

Yeah, I know EXACTLY what you mean. Refer to my sig, where it says 'Syclone'. My own little nightmare.:rolleyes:

That is a bad azz Syclone.What have you done nitrous ,built motor?

NO Nitrous!! It spent close to a year here getting built up ---> www.ToBeFast.com


Basically a built bottom end (Stock Block/Stock Crank-hardened), killer Vortec Stage3 heads, BIG cam, intake, exhaust. BIG Innovative 72mm Dual Ball-Bearing Turbo, Air2Air Intercooler, F.A.S.T. with 83lb. injectors. The Stock Transmission was wasted while he was tuning it, so that got sent here for a rebuild ---> www.RoadmasterTranz.com

I run BFG Drag Radials on all 4 corners and have pulled a best 60' of 1.60 so far. The run in my sig was a somewhat mild one. The truck WILL go 10's, pretty easily in fact. I just have to get back to the strip with it, but not in the Summer heat. Even though the AC still blows super cold air.

Just like you mentioned though, it's always something you have to fiddle with to keep them running just right. For me it's usually ignition related, but today it was my external wastegate. The valve had some corrosion on it and it got sticky, so I had to take it off, disassemble it, clean it up, and put it back on. It wasn't a hard job, it just took about 2 hours. Just got back from a 'test run' and all is cool now. 20psi feels soooooo good! :cool:

I purchased the truck new, and now the odometer reads a little over 11,000 miles. :D

That is awesome Mike.When I get mine back together it should be a high 10 second car.It will be back together for me when I return from Vegas.

OCT 1 I am putting in the Lunati billet steel crank and Oliver rods.I had no idea I was going this far. I will just try to baby it `til OCT and not hit it hard or race it.Bummer it can`t go to Vegas and defend it`s Best of Show title at the Nationals last year. :(

I thought I would have a little 600 hp motor not a 875 hp monster...who would of thought? :)

I thought I would have a little 600 hp motor not a 875 hp monster...who would of thought? :)

Yeah, my initial plan was to have a high 11 second truck, but you obviously know how things go. Now I have one that'll turn high 11's without breaking a sweat! :D

With the boost set around 20psi, I figure I'm around 600-650hp at the crank. Not bad for 4.3 liters I guess. ;)

With the boost set around 20psi, I figure I'm around 600-650hp at the crank. Not bad for 4.3 liters I guess. ;) ....Imagine THAT ! He he. :)

Took my "DODGE" badge off the tail gate today. Thanks to everyone for their tips and tricks. I used the fishing line method and everything turned out great. Fingers are a little raw from rubbing that black stuff off to actually get to the heart of the sticky stuff.

One little tip. Use heavier than 8lb test. It broke quite often.

Good tip Firefighter...guess I took it for granted that our steel leader here is a bit heavier than what's typically used for freshwater.... I may have been using 50 LB coated leader....the coating keeps from digging into the badges while pulling "sawing" the leader from behind them.

I also wrapped the ends of the leaders to a couple of left over wood dowling. Anchor the leader / line to it...roll up the slack and rock on.

Now Jeff you just need to get them Viper badges on. :)

Took my "DODGE" badge off the tail gate today. Thanks to everyone for their tips and tricks. I used the fishing line method and everything turned out great. Fingers are a little raw from rubbing that black stuff off to actually get to the heart of the sticky stuff.

One little tip. Use heavier than 8lb test. It broke quite often.


The tailgate looks smoooooooth now, doesn't it!! :cool: :cool: :cool:

My fingers were sore after I removed mine too, but it was worth every bit of it!

I de-badged my Hemi...I used plastic coated steel leader from the bait and tackle store... Pulled the leader behind the lettering and cut through the double sided tape. Then used 3M adhesive remover to get the glue off. No marks or scratches when done. Took about 3 minutes to get the letters off and about 1 hour to remove all the adhesive. Good luck. BTW some have used Goof Off to remove the remaining adhesive. All my lettering and badges are un-dammaged.


I used spiderwire(fishing line) and the exact same process. For the adhesive try using a fingernail or when that wears out a bondo applicator. Soft plastic or rubber. Keep it wet with adhesive remover. Just hit it with some polish and wax after and your set! Have fun..........

Anyone know where I can find/view pics of different viper emblems ???

Anyone know where I can find/view pics of different viper emblems ???

Anyone ? I looked all over the internet... :( :(

Here is the pics of my SRT-10 Viper badges.They list a Viper Owners Hood Ornament in the DC computer.Don`t know what that was or willing to order it and take a chance.


http://www.pbase.com/saabqueen/hamilton_plaza&page=all

Here is the pics of my SRT-10 Viper badges.They list a Viper Owners Hood Ornament in the DC computer.Don`t know what that was or willing to order it and take a chance.


http://www.pbase.com/saabqueen/hamilton_plaza&page=all

Looks good :D :D

Thx for the info

ThankSS.No problem.

how do you take off the dodge letters on the rear tailgate?whats the safest way? :D
This is what i did on my 2004 hemi quad cab...it works very well and it is very safe. I called 3m and talked to the tekkie there and told him that i wanted to remove the badging from my rig for ease of waxing and washing.
He told me to use ""3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner""
Part Number: 08984
don't get the spray can, get the can...I forgot how many ounces but you will want to be a little generous when using it. It DOES NOT harm the paint or finish.
I did polish and wax afterwards. the most important thing is to be PATIENT.

Now to take off the badging...
I applied some of the 3M product on the badge and gave a little wait time for it to soak into the adhesive..It still will not be easy...so again be Patient.
On the ram..(I don't have my SRT-10 yet,,,supposed to be in this week) anyway, i took a screw driver to 'lift' slightly the lettering from away from the paint...DONT SLIP...WHAT EVER YA DO! in the other hand i had a very sharp knife tip...you can also use an exacto knife...and i just started to cut the foam adhesive in small careful strokes. Don't pry the lettering so much that the bottom of the letter start to gouge into the paint...if you know what i mean...? "Over tipping the letter /badge"
anyway go to this site and chek out the areas that the badging was removed, doors, tail gate had DODGE lettering on it...this is my blue Hemi that I traded in for my SRT-10, oh excuse me...Flame Red SRT-10...
good luck on the badge removal. I left the Hemi badge on ...a sin to take that off...http://dodgetruckworld.tenmagazines.com/mygallery.asp?id=7067
the title of my gallery is Subtle Changes Photos
Oh one more thing, once you get the lettering off there will be the adhesive to deal with...what I did is used my thumb (get ready for blisters by the time your are done) and started the adhesive in a small ball...rollling it off of the surface...once i got most of the adhesive off, the cleaner took the rest off...but again be careful using a rag, terry cloth, cheese cloth what ever...don't do any violent rubbing...I basically did this with my fingers! I did the same thing to my 1997 1500 SLT Sport Ram and got lost of compliments. Patience is the key to all of this..
good luck again...

Big D

Took the side emblems and the "Dodge" off of the rear. Looks great.

I tried the fishing line way... kept snapping. So I got the vice grips and voila! Off they came! Then soaked the leftover adhesive in Acrysol (an autobody prep liquid by Kent Automotive) and busted out the heat gun... came off like a charm. Got a few blisters on the fingers from rubbing, but very much worth it. Now all I need to do is get my meathooks on some Viper emblems and a few "Viper Powered" thingamagoos, and booyakawaaaay! All done.

Well, all done as far as things that I can glue on go. :D