how to properly bleed your clutch - Dodge Ram SRT-10 Forum
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post #1 of 32 Old 06-08-2004, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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how to properly bleed your clutch

this not the gospel, so do this at your own risk/abilities so if your cant do it take it to a trained tech. but this will give you some insight as to how it is done.
i used RFI bleeder kit we sell thru our store.
guys this might help if you are having a F&*K of a time trying yourself or your dealer is trying to bleed your clutch.
i used a RFI (reverse fluid injector) its a pistol grip syringe basically, that acts as a hand held master cylinder.
ideally, you would have youre slave cylinder out of the tranny on the bench for this. but it can be done in the car as well.
you will want to remove the throw out bearing so the spring under it can come can off of the slave cylinder. (on the stock truck slave there is a spring clip, on the Viper slave you twist the throw bearing so the retaining tab lines up with the removal slot.)
loosen the bleeder & compress the piston in the slave by sliding the throw out bearing back on & squeezing it down until it stops at the bottem. inject fluid into the slave thru the bleeder port until it pushes the throw out bearing out until it is even with the end of the slave cylinder. tigtnen the bleeder, & reassemble the throw out bearing & spring assy.
THIS IS WHERE MY SYSTEM HAD A PROBLEM. i had air between the piston cups. inject fluid thru the poppet valve at the end of the line up to the master cylinder, being carfull not to overfill the resevoir. do this until no more bubbles appear. then remove the master cylinder from the truck -just 2 bolts- & remove the clip that holds the plunger assy in the master. then remove the plunger holding it upside down with the braided line hanging down as not to let air back in to it. fill up the master cylinder body with new brake fluid to the very top. slowly & carefully minding not to tear a piston cup assemble the plunger. it will over flow the brake fluid, thats the idea so it dosent have trapped air in it. you may need any assistant to hold down the plunger so you can put the spring clip back in. wipe everything down & reinstall the MC.
you have no air in the system, when your pedal has no more than 3/4-1" of freeplay before you feel pressure with your hand.
to tell if your slave or MC is the problem, disconnect the line from the slave by pushing in the plastic clip with pliers & pushing then pulling on the line while pushing in the plastic sleeve. if the pedal is immediatly hard to push (with your hand) the slave has air in it. if is spongy the MC (and also maybe the slave) has air in it.
i used Motul Racing Brake Fluid, we use it on our roadracing bikes, as it has one of the highest boiling points and is packaged in nitrogen so it wont asorb moisture. this stuff is GOOD!
also, instulate the clutch line a little better with some heat wrap, and on the earlier model '04's, make sure your line is secured to the firewall away from the exhaust pipe. i actually used header wrap around the exhaust pipe there to keep heat away from the clutch, line & tranny, i do both sides when we do an install. it keeps the cab area cooler, and the tranny as well!

Last edited by BOOMER; 03-07-2006 at 08:04 AM.
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post #2 of 32 Old 06-11-2004, 09:38 AM
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Thanks for the excellent write up. I will be refering to this soon.
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post #3 of 32 Old 06-11-2004, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the excellent write up. I will be refering to this soon.
NO PROBLEMO! glad i could help.
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post #4 of 32 Old 06-27-2005, 10:24 PM
Dan Cragin
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Bleeding the clutch can be difficult. To eliminate many of the SRT Ram clutch
hydraulic issues we reroute the clutch master cylinder line away from the converter and wrap it with some DEI heat wrap. Then we pressure bleed the system with DOT 4 fluid. The pressure bleeder is the only way to go.

Hope this helps, thanx Boomer.

Dan Cragin
DC Performance
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post #5 of 32 Old 06-28-2005, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Cragin
Bleeding the clutch can be difficult. To eliminate many of the SRT Ram clutch
hydraulic issues we reroute the clutch master cylinder line away from the converter and wrap it with some DEI heat wrap. Then we pressure bleed the system with DOT 4 fluid. The pressure bleeder is the only way to go.

Hope this helps, thanx Boomer.

Dan Cragin
DC Performance
right on Dan! the pressure bleeder saves us a lot of time here at the shop. i couldnt live without them!
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post #6 of 32 Old 09-10-2009, 11:10 PM
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When I did mine, I had let the system drain so I could flush out dirty fluid.
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post #7 of 32 Old 08-11-2010, 02:07 PM
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Please forgive my lack of understanding, guys. What's the point of bleeding a clutch? What's it supposed to do? I have a manual transmission in my car, so this peaked my interest.

Summer
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post #8 of 32 Old 08-11-2010, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by summer12278 View Post
Please forgive my lack of understanding, guys. What's the point of bleeding a clutch? What's it supposed to do? I have a manual transmission in my car, so this peaked my interest.
Clutch fluid will deteriate over time due to heat and moisture.....this will cause shifting problems..some flush the clutch fluids everytime the engine oil is changed...probably overkill but......

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2006 SRT10 RC Night Runner #87/400...Slightly Modded by JTS Venom Performance....
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post #9 of 32 Old 08-12-2010, 08:55 AM
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At each oil change? Ugh. Bigtime overkill (unless you're racing).

Clutch fluid is DOT 4 brake fluid.

The simple schedule would be to change it out every time you change your brake fluid (once a year, depending on the amount you drive).

DC is correct about the bleeding: PRESSURE is the key.
A Mity-Vac kit will work great for your brakes and clutch (Wal-Mart...about $30). A wise investment.

"Never underestimate the power of a dark clown..."

Black 2005 SRT-10 RC
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post #10 of 32 Old 08-12-2010, 11:09 AM
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my cap says DOT 3 is that right?

04' #1050 RC Flame Red SRT-10 Born at 7:00A.M. on 3/24 VTR-0009 or VTR-2004-0002
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