How To: Intake Manifold Removal - Dodge Ram SRT-10 Forum
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post #1 of 32 Old 08-12-2010, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
SpudRacer
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Intake manifold removal:


This is what it looks like before starting.



1. Start by removing the air cover lid, followed by the large air hose running from the air box to the throttle body intake. There is an air-temp sensor in the air hose that needs to be disconnected from the engine electrical harness near the throttle body, two slotted screwdriver band clamps at each end of the air hose, and a breather hose at the air box that all need to be disconnected.

2. Next, start on the throttle body (TB). The throttle WOT switch has an electrical connector on the passenger side, and there are 3 throttle cables that need to be disconnected on the driver's side. Once you get these three disconnected, you might as well pull off the throttle bracket. 2ea 11mm bolts out and off she comes. There's also a vacuum hose connected under the TB. Once it's all disconnected, remove the four mounting bolts. You can use a socket, but it's best to use a torq bit (T-30). Once all four bolts are out, the TB should come right off. Just for grins, look inside the manifold. If you see some oil pooled in there, it's normal and is coming from the passenger valve cover breather hose. You can stop this oil collection if you use a JMB catch can. http://jmbperformance.com/store/prod...roducts_id=106











3. Now it's time to start disconnecting more stuff off the manifold. There is a sensor mounted at the front left and the front right of the manifold. Both sensors are held on with two small black screws that also use a torq bit (T-25).

4. Now we'll focus on the fuel injectors. You do NOT need to bleed the pressure out of the fuel system unless you plan to completely remove the rails from the engine bay (which you don't need to do). To bleed, disconnect the battery, then use a small screwdriver and depress the pin under the cap on the passenger side rail. It is recommended to pull the electrical harness plugs from the injectors BEFORE you unbolt the injector rails from the manifold. These need to be disconnected because each injector harness plug wire runs down between the manifold runners. They have to come off. There are two small tabs on the side of each injector that hold on the connector. I tried using small screwdrivers to pry the sides away from the injector's tabs while pushing up from below. I ended up cracking a total of four of the side plates on the connectors. This won't affect anything, can't be seen, and won't hinder holding down the connectors. If you can just pull them off, all the better.
-Once you get the harness disconnected from all 10 injectors, pull off 3ea 11mm bolts from both injector rails and just gently pull upwards on the rail. It WILL pop off, injectors and all. Note, there is a small grey fuel line that runs from the driver's rail to the passenger rail at the front of the rails, this does NOT need to be disconected. Leave it connected, and take the rails off as a single unit. If you want to remove them completely from the engine bay, simply disconnect the fuel hose from the rear of the driver's rail. You need a special tool to do this without risk of messing anything up. If you don't have one, buy one.











5. Next, there is a vacuum line at the driver's front of the manifold that has to be disconnected, and a smaller line near the rear of the driver's side of the manifold. Once these are disconnected, you should have everything disconnected to start pulling off manifold bolts. Then, lastly, there are some yellow tabs that are pressed into the manifold underneath into threaded holes that hold the injector harness underneath the manifold. There are 3 on the passenger side, and two on the driver's side. The best way to get them out is to use two screwdrivers, one on each side and pry upwards. You can see them in the last photo below.

6. Now is time to start on those bolts. You can get almost half of them out easily with a 10mm box-end wrench. These are the outer bolts. Next comes the inner bolts. These are the tough ones. I recommend starting with the rearmost bolts and work your way forward. I tried several tools to no avail. A socket will not fit, it hits the manifold. A Box-end wrench will not fit, it hits the manifold. I then proceeded to a T30 torq bit held by a long 1/4" box-end wrench. The photo below is with a small 1/4" wrench before I upgraded to a long brake-bleeder 1/4" wrench. I did use this wrench set-up on a few bolts.



This succeeded in loosening two of the inward bolts, but started stripping the third. Next I hit on the best solution. I took a 10mm box-end wrench, and took it to my bench grinder and ground it down. This was successful to loosen the remaining bolts. Not only is it difficult to loosen the bolts, once loose, it is difficult to get your fingers to them to spin them out. Good luck!




7. This is what the manifold looks like all disconnected and ready to come off...




8. This is after it is pulled off. Be sure to plug up the intake holes AS SOON AS THE MANIFOLD IS OFF. Don't take the risk of making a $5K mistake! Most say you can reuse the intake manifold gaskets at least once. You should look them over closely to make sure they look OK before reuse. Mine look fine and will be reused for the installation.




Tom


2005 "Yellow Fever" #285 Quad-cab

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose."
Quote by Jim Elliott


Last edited by SpudRacer; 04-06-2011 at 08:28 PM.
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post #2 of 32 Old 08-22-2010, 04:36 AM Thread Starter
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I just decided at 0430 dark hours to try allen bolts to reinstall. Got OOB, measured the bolts (they are 1/4" x 20 at 1" long), and placed an order for #100 chromed bolts ($1 apiece) and #100 grade 5 chromed washers ($0.44 apiece).

Will see if they are easier to install. Will also replace valve cover bolts, water pump bolts, thermostat bolts, throttle body bolts, you get the idea. I figure to use about #80 bolts.

Tom


2005 "Yellow Fever" #285 Quad-cab

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose."
Quote by Jim Elliott

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post #3 of 32 Old 08-22-2010, 06:03 AM
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Where did you get them from? I'll be snatching mine off within a few days!!!


RWHP 451/ 477 RWTQ
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post #4 of 32 Old 08-22-2010, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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"Snatching off", we'll see about that one!!

http://www.allensfasteners.com/detai...oduct_ID=10241

Troy my good man, might I suggest you wait until I get mine and see if they work before you spend the money? You may not like them, but your coin.

I think they'll look awesome holding on the carbon fiber valve covers!

Tom


2005 "Yellow Fever" #285 Quad-cab

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose."
Quote by Jim Elliott

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post #5 of 32 Old 08-22-2010, 09:26 AM
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Nice work Tom, having completed that task a short time ago I can say that is a very good "how to" you have writen there!!

Ian.

PS Your'e engine is sooooo clean have you ever driven the truck out of the showroom lol.

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still the best forum out there!!

Last edited by Knatman; 08-22-2010 at 09:29 AM.
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post #6 of 32 Old 08-23-2010, 12:06 AM
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sounds good...ill be taking my intake back off anyway


RWHP 451/ 477 RWTQ
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post #7 of 32 Old 11-07-2010, 03:35 PM
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Would this type of bolt make for easier install and removal ???
http://www.allensfasteners.com/detai...roduct_ID=0500
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post #8 of 32 Old 11-07-2010, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpudRacer View Post
"Snatching off", we'll see about that one!!

http://www.allensfasteners.com/detai...oduct_ID=10241

Troy my good man, might I suggest you wait until I get mine and see if they work before you spend the money? You may not like them, but your coin.

I think they'll look awesome holding on the carbon fiber valve covers!
Well? How did these work?

Steve

2006 Mineral Gray QC 590whp/573wtq -Currently Under Construction- Paxton S/C, Fully built JTSVP trans, Racetronix 65lb injectors, JTSVP 2400 Stall Converter, Snow Stage II meth kit, Twin In-Tank Walbro's, Magnaflow catback, JMB catless mids, SCT flash tuned by Torrie, BBK (JTSVP ported) throttle body, 170 T-stat, Caltracs, Hurst Line-Lock, Belltech rear leveling shackles
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post #9 of 32 Old 11-07-2010, 05:01 PM
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He might not answer for a week, he's out of country




Is your Viper Truck on the Viper Truck Registry?



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post #10 of 32 Old 11-13-2010, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SANTEEN View Post
Well? How did these work?
Yea, I won't be back until tonight!

My polished intake is at home (arrived two days ago), my valve covers are at home, my carbon catch can is at home, but alas, I am not.

I hope to get everything installed on Wednesday when I'm post call from the ER or next week. Then I'll let you know how those Allen fasteners worked. I think they're gonna work fine.

I'll post photos ASAP. If my "new" intake got dinged again during shipping from Fed Ex, you won't need the internet to hear my scream...

Tom


2005 "Yellow Fever" #285 Quad-cab

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose."
Quote by Jim Elliott

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