1-1/2" rear drop pics inside
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I had a company that manufactures u-bolts and other things make them for me. They are 3-1/2" ID by 10" lenght and from 9/16" material. I had them made a little long in case I want to try a 2" block. The factory u-bolts are 14mm I believe.9 seconds said:
The 2" blocks are easy to find but no one seems to make a 1-1/2" block. I had to cut a 2" block down to the 1-1/2". If I can find a 1-1/2" block supplier I'm going to see if there is enough interest by other SRT-10 owners to do maybe 10 kits and see if I can get the cost down to $80-90/kit.
My next modification will be changing the rear bumper cover and tail pipes to exit each side at the rear.
Got a price on the bumper cover today and will order it tomorrow. Going to keep the original one for now and will modify the new one. It will probably take me 2-3 weeks in my spare time to do the cover and the tail pipes.HDVIPER said:
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What did a 5,000 pound truck with Viper power say to the lowering blocks? ...... SNAP!!
I guess it's just me but if I had an SRT Ram, I would mess with it's suspension, at least without using the best methods and materials. I'm not talking crap, I just don't think blocks are a great way to lower this truck.
I guess it's just me but if I had an SRT Ram, I would mess with it's suspension, at least without using the best methods and materials. I'm not talking crap, I just don't think blocks are a great way to lower this truck.
I'm curious. What will go snap? I've been thinking about lowering mine but I'll already be lowering it when I put on the 28" slicks. I don't want the nose to point in the air when drag racing. Would the snap be from U-joints, springs, the lowering block, etc.?MoparREVolution said:
Thanks,
Steve
I will have (don't have yet) a set from Complete Custom Wheel. 16" rims in the rear for slicks. Will have to finish brake mods to run them.
www.ccwheel.com
www.ccwheel.com
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57 Posts
Ok well not really snap, but would eventually fracture and crack. To me at least, using blocks is sort of a "cheap" way of dropping the suspension, that's in my opinion. IF I had an SRT, I'd wait till a good set of lowering leaf springs were released.
I have a Dakota, bought a set of blocks to lower my truck, and when I got them, I changed my mind, I'm going to save up for a complete Hotckis setup. $1,100 for the whole shabang.
But hey, go for it, see what happens.
I have a Dakota, bought a set of blocks to lower my truck, and when I got them, I changed my mind, I'm going to save up for a complete Hotckis setup. $1,100 for the whole shabang.
But hey, go for it, see what happens.
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51 Posts
Actually I am more curious as to the ride. Do you notice any change in the way the truck handles? I have had several occaisions where at higher speeds too quick a pull on the old steering wheel can get a bit skitish if you know what I mean. I have been looking into a bag system which I have been told will greatly improve the quality of ride. One of the guys I have spoke to does a varation of a 4 point where he uses a canterlever system, gives greater range to the bags. Any thoughts??? 
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Get A Shop Manual (that's Why they Make 'em)
Blocks have always been and always will be a viable way to lower your vehicle, even if it does limit the suspension travel an equal amount. Depends on what you will use it for. In any lowering situation, whether it be re-arching the springs to lower it or buying pre-made lowering springs, there will still be the same travel loss. More important would be the pinon angle/propeller shaft angles . This should be checked with an inclineometer set on the driveshaft and compared before and after. If not enough degrees, U-joints don't work properly and if to many degrees they may bind ... Just food for thought. The rear end and drive shaft you save maybe your own. When I was younger they sold tapered shims that go between the spring and the mounting pad on the rear end to adjust pinon angle. This can be critical! Especially with this much horsepower..
NOTE:
SEE FACTORY SHOP MANUAL FOR 2004 RAM UNDER DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE PROPELLER SHAFT!!!! SECTION 3-1 THROUGH SECTION 3-5
You can obtain a manual by calling 1-800-890-4038 or visit http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com on the internet....
JERRY
Blocks have always been and always will be a viable way to lower your vehicle, even if it does limit the suspension travel an equal amount. Depends on what you will use it for. In any lowering situation, whether it be re-arching the springs to lower it or buying pre-made lowering springs, there will still be the same travel loss. More important would be the pinon angle/propeller shaft angles . This should be checked with an inclineometer set on the driveshaft and compared before and after. If not enough degrees, U-joints don't work properly and if to many degrees they may bind ... Just food for thought. The rear end and drive shaft you save maybe your own. When I was younger they sold tapered shims that go between the spring and the mounting pad on the rear end to adjust pinon angle. This can be critical! Especially with this much horsepower..
NOTE:
SEE FACTORY SHOP MANUAL FOR 2004 RAM UNDER DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE PROPELLER SHAFT!!!! SECTION 3-1 THROUGH SECTION 3-5
You can obtain a manual by calling 1-800-890-4038 or visit http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com on the internet....
JERRY
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