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Discussion Starter #1
Just ran my truck at the Fayetteville track, ran a 12.40 at 114.1 mph
 

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Does sound like something, Good #'s. What were the rest of the #'s on the run 60', 330' Ect? More info please....................... Thanks Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The Fayetteville track is about two miles from the airport. And i sprayed a 125 shot. My 60 ft was 1.99, 1/8 was 8.0 at 90.60. Tires psi was 22 and i took of the spare tire and the frount seat out. Mods were magnaflow, cold air intake, and a zex syetem. Just need some slicks now, had some wheel hope when i came off the line.
 

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Congrats on your times :)
The last time I was in Fayetteville was in 98 when I left Fort Bragg ...
I thought that was an 1/8 mile track over there...
 

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most tracks won't allow you to run slicks without traction bars.

You need some!
that rear end hop is actually the rear end twisting and drastically changing the pinion angle on your drive shaft, which, if you keep doing it will snap the driveshaft or U joint in two.

I'd also add a drive shaft loop so if the driveshaft does break, it doesn't catapult your truck..

I've witnessed it happen and it aint pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for your advice wikdsvt, all i knew about wheel hop is that it is not good so i backed off right when it happened.
 

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im wondering if it would help to have your shocks redone so that it is a "tiedown" so to speak, meaning that once compressed it stays compressed.?????????
 

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TSDuke said:
It was nice meeting you Chris, and running against that badass SRT10. I've got some nice footage of all of us on the highway. I need to get it online.

MarkPMB, check out the site below.
Fayetteville Motorsports Park
Post the video here too, please
 

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Wikdsvt said:
most tracks won't allow you to run slicks without traction bars.

You need some!
that rear end hop is actually the rear end twisting and drastically changing the pinion angle on your drive shaft, which, if you keep doing it will snap the driveshaft or U joint in two.

I'd also add a drive shaft loop so if the driveshaft does break, it doesn't catapult your truck..

I've witnessed it happen and it aint pretty.
The SRT10 comes from the factory with all the parts to run killer times... check out the following image:



I asked the SRT engineer that I spoke to about their setup and he explained it to me as follows (and sent me the above graphic):

"There are half leaf springs and snubbers in the forward half of the spring stack that increase the spring rate of the assembly when the pinion tries to wind up due to to torque reaction at the tire along with a Bilstein monotube shock mounted between the frame and the top of the custom cast aluminum diff cover that has rebound to compression control forces along the lines of 3:1. This allows the shock to help dampen the initial torque impulse (pulling or trying to lengthen the shock) that causes power hop and helps soften the reaction when the entire system unwinds (compression or pushing on the shock). At the extremes, If you put a solid link in place of the shock, the system would never wind up and you'd break traction almost instantaneously. Under heavy braking, a solid link would also tend to cause brake hop. If you go one step further and put a steel cable in place of the shock, the pinion would never wind up (you'd lose traction here too) but the system would perform better under braking. The monotube shock was used since it could be mounted horizontally and the amount of control under acceleration and braking can be tuned. The stiffer the control forces are in rebound, the less the built-in half leaf springs come into play. For drag racing, ideally you want the shock to allow some windup, which engages the springs and transfers more load into the contact patch at the tire (similar to ladder bars) and improves your traction and then stay squatted .... Our system has the bonus of being dynamically transparent for everyday driving - you don't know it's there unless you're planting the power... the truck just squats and goes."

He gave me more specifics on how to set the system up specifically for drag racing, too. Hope that helps shed some light on the subject... - toohigh
 

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4.56 axle ratio means you need a larger propshaft to stay out of prop critical speeds at vmax (140 mph and up)... the OLA truck ran a 4.11 with smaller diameter tires, which roughly equated to a 4.56 rear end ratio. 2005 vehicles with a 4.56 have a 5" diameter prop standard (the quad is a two-piece design).... something to keep in mind when throwing an aftermarket set of gears in your 4.10 truck (i.e. upgrade the prop too!) ;)
 

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toohighpsi said:
4.56 axle ratio means you need a larger propshaft to stay out of prop critical speeds at vmax (140 mph and up
Can we take that to mean that as long as we stay below 140 mph with the 4.56's then we will also stay out of the prop critical speeds?
 

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I know this is an old thread. Does the unitrax kit thats out there for 4.56 gears come with a new prop too?
 
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