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I am new to drag racing on 4 wheels, so I have been researching web sites for tips. I came across the following tips and thought some of my fellow SRT 10 fanatics may find them as helpful as I did. Although all of the tips are not applicable to our trucks (the tires mentioned obviously will not fit our trucks), most of the advice seems very good. I apologize in advance if it is considered bad maners to copy from another forum. :eek:


Tires, we have tried them all. The best we have come up with is HOOSIER 16x 28 EITHER DRAG SLICK OR QUICK TIME PRO DOT. They use the same compound for both so your 60s will be the same no matter which one you buy. If you plan on running Street Stock you will need to get the Quick Time Pros which are street leagal and can be run in this class.
Heating up--If you try to do a tv burnout, you're gonna peal the rubber of these tires as they will not take it. tHE FIRST TIME WHEN NEW do one 10-12 second burnout and then let the tires season(set don't use) for 24 hours. Then, when you go to the track, stop in the water box and gently rotate your tires 3-4 revolutions and then pull forward and wait for the signal to do your burnout. You will find that wetting the tires makes them much easier to start spinning and they both will spin rather than only one which sometimes happens when one is dry and one is wet. Not good for the rearend. Turn down your side mirror so you can see the tire in the wheelwell. I generally go up to between 4500 and 5000 in low gear. When I see smoke, I release, let off the gas, and go to the line. Extensive burnouts do not improve the Hoosiers and only wear them out quicker. Keith gets about four months to a set. I get over a year. You make the call. It's your money.

Cutting a good light is just like shooting a rifle. Remember how you were taught to take a deep breath, exhale slowly, and pull the trigger? Same applies to racing. When both stage the second set of yellows take a deep breath and start to exhale slowly. When you lite comes on you will be ready and not be destracted by inhaling. You will be ready to go!! Try it, it works and will cut down your r.t.

When racing a slower car that will leave first you must NOT become a spectator and watch him. If you do you will loose your concentration and cut a bad lite. Always make sure you know what your competition's dial in is. If you don't know when you get across the road, get out and go look. Its not illegal. I just ask the starter.
Concentrate on your lite and don't look at him leave. Race your race. Cut a good lite, run your dialin and you will win!!!!!!!!!



Launch rpm greatly effects Reaction Time. Higher launch RPM will decrease your RT. If you are trying to be consistant you and leave at the same place on the tree each time it is imperative that you have the same launch rpm. Since these tachs are not graduated very well, I susgest that you put the tach on 1,000 rpm which is easy to line up. Then start leaving at exactly the same place on the tree, like the beginning of the start of the third yellow. If that works but your rt is too low you can try moving up the launch rpm, but remember, if you spin the tires you will generally loose about .10 in et which is not good in bracket racing.


What if the other guy stages both sets of lites. If you go ahead and stage when that happens it will result in the following: 1. It means you accept his stage and have no room for protest. 2. It means when you stage the second set the tree will probably start real fast (before you are ready) and you will cut a bad lite and lose.
What to do. DON'T PULL FORWARD AND DO NOT STAGE THE FIRST SET OF LITES. If the starter looks at you point to the other guy and point backwards. Make the starter move the other guy back out of the lites. When he does immediately move up and stage the first lite and as soon as he stages his first lite stage your second lite. You will definitely put him off his rhythm and you will probably tree him. All part of psychological drag racing.



Running last Friday with my new lower pulley, I was trying to be very consistant so I could see what difference my pulley was making. Here are the results.
60' et dialin.
1.98 8.65 --
1.95 8.64 --
1.95 8.65 --
1.95 8.65 --
1.95 8.63 8.63
1.95 8.62 8.60

As you can see the 60' times are very consistant. If your 60' are varying you cannot dial in an accurate time. If you have to allow for 50' that are varying .1 you are going to have to add so much fudge factor to your dialin you will be beat by someone running their dial. It's one thing to have a super best, bragging-right 60', but its another thing to have consistant 60' and consistant is what wins bracket races. There are two secrects to this. Same burnout every time. Same launch RPM everytime. I was launching at 1,000 rpm. I do a 5 second burnout AFTER THE TIRES START TO THROW BLUE SMOKE. I watch out of my driverside mirror. When they start to smoke I do a slow five count, release the brakes, watch the tach, and brake, shift to neutral, rev twice, check my dialin on the board, drop into drive and creep up to the lites.


If my truck is going to run faster at night how do I set my dialin?

First you have to know how much your truck will vary from 7 pm to 11 pm. The only way to find this out is to go to a track at night and see.

Stock (no chip) my truck use to vary .15 at night.

With a chip it would vary .1

With pulley and chip it varies .05

If you are launching at high rpm it will vary more because the traction improves although this may not be the case at car club.

By launching at a low rpm (1000) my 60's stay fairly consistant.

There is an inverse relationship between dropping temperature and increasing humidty. I have found that roughtly 1 degree temp drop is good for .005 drop in ET. 2% increase in humidity is good for a .005 increase in ET. 15 degree temp drop offset by 30% increase in humidity (not uncommon at LSR) should wipe each other out and you should run the same; however, this is not the case. Why? because the air right above the tract is not at the same temp as the ambiant air. If you start racing with an air temp of 90 degress and sun on the track then the air just above the track is probably closer to 135 degrees and two hours later it will be close to ambiant air temp which is more like a 50-60 degree drop. This is hard to quantify because I have no way to measure track temp and air temp just above the track, but one thing for sure you will run faster at night. Use the above rule of thumb when adjusting your dialin Saturday nite and remember you won't see it all at once. Usually one hour after the sun no longer hits the track you will go faster. It doesn't take that long if there is a wind blowing over the track.

you will run quicker and quicker each time, assuming you have at least a 30 minute cool down between runs. Back to back runs generally result in a .03 to .05 slower time.


What effects your RT.

1. Obviously the most important is when you hammer it.

2. Octane of your fuel

3. RPM at launch.

4. Rear gears

5. Roll out

Obviously when you hit it is the most important. You must determine when to leave on the tree. You can only do this with practice, but there are other things that will effect your RT also.

Octane of your fuel will effect your RT. Higher octane fuel will produce more power which will launch you quicker and lower your RT. It is important to always have the same mixture if you want to be consistant. On straight 93 I have to leave earlier on the tree than when I have my 104/93 mix (50-50).

RPM at launch is very important for consistant RT. The higher RPM at which you launch, WITHOUT SPINNING, will lower your RT. This specific RPM will vary every time you go to the track. I have settled on an RPM which is lower than the highest I can launch at, but will always work and give consistant RT and consistant 60' times (1,000 RPM). If you don't know what your RPM is at launch, you will never have consistant RTs.

Rear gears, in theory, will change your RT. 373s should launch quicker than 353s and 410s quicker than 373s, assuming you do not spin the tires. At launch the lower gears equate to more power enabling you to leave the line quicker.

ROLL OUT. Roll out is the distance you vehicle travels after you trip the second yellow lite. To get consistant RTs you need to roll into the second set of Yellows the same distance everytime. Since you can't get out and measure all you can do is try to just barely turn on the second yellows. Bump up to the second yellows with the brake. Since our trucks are all automatics this should be easy to do. If you go to far into the second yellows you CANNOT BACKUP, by rules, however, you can keep going and go thru the lites, ACCIDENTLY, and screw up the tree. Stop, starter will motion for you to back up, he will reset the tree and you can restage. Never admit you did this intentially and don't make a habit of it. Deep staging by going to far into the second set of yellows will generally result in a red lite start if you are really trying to cut a good lit. Pay attenting to where you turn on the second set.


Too many people watch John Force and think that is the way to do burnouts. Every tire requires a different amount of heat (BURNOUT) to properly prepare it for the best launch.

The first of this applies to both F1s and MT ET STREETS.

Pull through the water box. Do not sit with rear tires in water box. When pulling up to water box look and see where all the water is on the track from the last guy and go to the left, right, or forward so your rear tires are not sitting in the last guys water. Why? Because it will take you longer to due your burnout and achieve your correct operating tire temp if you have to burn out all the other guys water along with yours.

Street tires: Spin tires just enough to throw off the water. 2-4 seconds. Heating up an F1 will just make it slippery not better.

MT ET Streets: Set your side mirror to see wheelwell, start wheels spinning (4,000-5,000 is good) When you start to see blue smoke start a slow five count--one thousand one, one thousand two, etc.....When you get to five release brakes, watch tach, roll, brake shift to netural (you should have been in low) rev to about 2000 a couple of times shift to drive look at your board. Your dial in should appear on your board. You are responsible for your dialin being correct. If it is move up to the line. If not roll down your window and get starters attention.

HOOSIERS Hoosiers need very little burnout to be ready to run. Spin them up until you see the blue smoke and release, let off and go to the line. The only time I have not done this is in the winter at night when I figure the tires are really cold and so is the track.

Long burnouts also heat up your engine and especially your intercooler fluid which will cause you to run slower and off your dial unless you do it the same every time.

Consitant burnouts will give you consistant 60' times which will give you more consistant ETs.


Reaction time is the time that it takes for yur eye to see the light, your brain to react and the to hit the gas pedal and go. Studies show that most people have a reaction time of around .200-.250. Your truck also takes a certain amount of time to react. It has to release brakes, spool up, move the suspension around some before moving forward.

The tire has to roll forward to unblock the beam in order to trigger the RT time.

All this takes around .5 of a second. This is why you can leave at the start of the third lite and get a good reaction time.

Under perfect conditions for you and your truck if you left when the third lite just stated to light you would cut a .500 RT.

What can you do when you do this and don't get a .50 lite but instead get a say .85 light.

You have three choices--One leave before the third lite goes on, two--Deep stage by bumping into the second lite further, or three put smaller tires on the front of your truck.

One--Leaving anywhere but on the start of the third lite will require an antication or guess. This is not a good way to be consistant.

Two- Deep stage by after you trigger the second lite, releasing your brakes for a second and bumping forward into the second lite. If you can learn to bumb exactly the same distance every time, say one inch you can try this but it is inconsistant and remember bumping in gives you less rollout so your et will be slower which will affect your dial in.

Three--Reduce the diameter of your front tires until when you leave at the start of the 3rd lite you get consistant low RTs. This is what I have been working on this year. I have new front tires that have a diameter 2" smaller than the tires I ran last year. Don't tune your tires until you have all or most of your mods you want to install in place as you might have to go to bigger tires.

Drag racing tip #12


1. You will get some dragracing tires and wheels. I don't care what kind of times the yankees post on F-150 about their F-1s they are POS tires at LSR in Texas in the summer.
The very first thing you must learn in bracket racing is how to cut consistant 60' times. This cannot be done on street tires or drag radials. The only tires that have worked are MTET STREETS, MTET DRAGS, the new HOOSIER DRAG SLICK. 4/14/03 I am updating this post. The new Hoosier Quick Time Pro DOT tire is now out in 16X 28. I changed from the Drag Slick to the Quick Time Pro DOTs so I could run Street Stock this year at LSR. I lost no time in my 60s with the DOT from the Drag Slick. This is the absolute finest tire available for Bracket Racing at this time. nd GOODYEAR 15" SLICKS and 15" wheels (if you have the money and don't mind shavin your calipers to go that route. This is an old option pre Hoosier). Everything else is Bull $hit.

When I started in Steet Stock two years agao you could win running within .04 of your dialin, thats four one hundreds of your dial. Last year Huckstra and I had it down to .02 and between him and I it was in the 10/10000s or .004 or something like that.

If you spin the tires just a little you are going to run .04 off your dialin. Spin the tires thru the 60' you will run .10 off your dialin. Spin your tires thru the 330 like I did in a run on Sunday and run .20 off your dialin. None of these is a recipe for winning.

Consistant 60's are achieved by leaving at an rpm that your tires do NOT spin and having tires that will give you a chance. MTET STREETS at 18-20 PSI, hot, when launched at 1000-1200 on a halfway decently preparted track (sometimes not ICCB) will launch cosistantly everytime. I got the slips to prove it. I have been able to launch the Hoosiers consistantly at up to 2200. At HRP probably up to 2500. This is a major improvement over the Mickey Thompsons and gives you a much bigger window to play with. I start the Hoosers at 16.5 psi cold and lower them to that each of my practice runs. By round one they will be between 15-15.5 and I am having no problems and I do not have them screwed to the wheels and I am not running tubes which I do not advise. If you run tubes you will have to screw the tires to the wheels to keep them from moving and tearing off the tube stem.



What do I do first? OK, there are three steps to being a good bracket racer. Cosistant 60's, Reaction Times and running close to your dial in. First you must concentrate on getting consistant 60' times. You can't set a dial in or win if your 60's are varing .1 to .2. Mine vary .01 to .02. That's where yours need to be. This is achieved by a combination of tires, drag links and launch rpm. Find the best that works for you. Yes, you need to look at the tach quickly and then raise your rpm and then go back to the tree. Once you have achieved consistant 60's you need to learn how to set your dial in. To be a winner you need to run consistantly within .02 of your dialin. Dialin is affected by temperature, humidity, barametric pressure, sunlite on the track,wind, and the amount of cooldown time between runs. Cooler temp equals faster times, hotter the opposite. Increases in humidity (common at night) reduce speed, decreasing barametric pressure equals reduced power. Wind is a plus or minus depending on where it is coming from and how hard it is. It will really effect these trucks. If it is windy you need to watch both the strength and direction of the wind before each run. Cool down time. Enough cannot be said about cool down time. Go run your truck and let it sit for 30 minutes and run it again and the immediately run it again. Your third run will be slower than your second run. To be consistant you need to be at the same temps every run or know how to adjust up your dial in. A hot lapped truck will generally run at least .04 slower if it has not cooled down. Using the temp gauges on the truck is worthless. The real important temp is the intercooler fluid temp and you need a gauge on it like I have. It is a truth teller about how you will run on the next round.
Once you have your 60's and dialin under control you can start to work on your Reaction Times.


Disconnect the negative battery cable for at least two minutes before your first run at the track. This will cause the computer to forget all the fuel averaging tables it has stored from your street driving. Most of us have noticed that these trucks run faster on the first pass than they do on the next several passes. With only two time trials this makes the first run a throwaway. Disconnecting the battery should give you two passes with fairly equal times. Jim disconnects his battery after every run. You will loose the clock and the left/right, fade, and speed volume setting but you will not loose the radio station settings.


Lets revisit consistant 60' times. I saw a slip Saturday wheresome ran .07 slower than there previous round. Cool down time was adequate so what happened. A look at the two slips shows a slower 60' time of .04. Ok so where did the other .03 come from. Answer from the slower 60 foot time. When your 60 foot slows you truck is not making the speed that it did in the previous round at the finish line. This is where the other loss in his time came from. If you want to be a good bracket racer it is imparative that you run consistant (within .02) 60 foot times.


You cannot spray away a bad RT. If you try you will breakout. RT does not effect your et. If you spray to catch up to another car that treed you, you will have to run faster and will run under your dial. Spray can be used to make up for spinning tires on your launch if your dial-in is based on a time when your tires don't spin; however, this is a very inexact science. Basicly what you do is spray, catch the other guy, brake and HOPE you don't breakout. The best answer is to get consistant 60 foot times and beat the other guy at the tree. How do you do that? PRACTICE!
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