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Discussion Starter #1
Question? Everbody keeps talking about putting 4:56's in the truck rather than the stock 4:10's. And not really seeing much difference in the times as far as quarter mile. If these trucks are pretty much useless in six gear at high speeds, wouldn't a lower gear be better, say like something even lower than 4:56's. How low could you go? Or could you? :confused: Would the computer even allow you to. Just curious. I have no money right now for anything extreme, like turbos or a supercharger (soon, but not yet!) but just looking for other alternatives other than just exhaust work, thats not too expensive. :p
 

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Sure. GearHeadBill slapped a set of 5.13's in his, and he said he loves it!

Now, I'm no Differential expert, so I'll just attempt to repeat what Devin @ Unitrax told me. He said something about the Carrier would need to be changed if a gear lower than 4.56's were used(If I remember correctly??).

I'm currently on the waiting list at Unitrax for a set of 4.56's. Apparantly they're having problems getting the installation kits for our Diffs, so it's been a couple months now. Hopefully by Spring Rear-End parts will be more plentiful, and different gear ratios will be more readily available, because I think I would like to install at least 4.88's (maybe 5.13's??), as I have no plans of Forced Induction - ever.

The computer shouldn't be a problem at all. Our Diffs house the speed sensor which means our speedo's automatically adjust when gears are changed, which is one good thing!

FWIW, from what others have reported, I think we're looking at around ~$750 to swap in 4.56's. Dunno exactly what parts were changed other than gears though? And I don't know if a lower gear will end up costing more to get installed? Hopefully others will chime in and share their experiences.
 

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One of the Forum members in South Florida has 5.13 gears in his truck. Haven't seen any info as to how it runs, fuel mileage, rpm's at various speeds and such yet. Maybe he will give us a little information on this subject.
Quite a few years back, I had a 1970 Dodge Challenger with a balanced and blueprinted 440, dual Holly 600's, Hemi 4-speed trans, and I was running 5.38 gears on the street. Not real good on the Interstate, but stoplight to stoplight, it was a bear, if you could get it to hook up.
4.10 gears seemed extreme when I first heard about the SRT-10, but now I realize, along with Chrysler, that more gear would help with the tall tires.

Later,
 

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even with a 22" tire, wouldn't that tall of a gear make 1st gear useless? You'd just spin right through it.
 

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Wikdsvt said:
even with a 22" tire, wouldn't that tall of a gear make 1st gear useless? You'd just spin right through it.
You'd have to feel what these trucks are like with the 4.11's. They really should've had 4.56's from the factory IMO.

If you've ever driven a late model Mustang with the stock 3.08/3.27 gears(Not necessarily the high-revving 4.6 DOHC Cobra's, but 5.0's and 4.6 GT's), well, the stock 4.11's in the SRT feel even higher! Plenty of these Mustang guys pass the 3.55 and go straight for 3.73's when changing gears, which is what I think would be comparable to a 4.88 in our SRT's.

5.13's are a bit extreme for me, but you and I know there are quite a few Mustangs running the streets with 4.11's or steeper. Some guys just like to burn rubber! :D

HTH's. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hamrhead said:
Sure. GearHeadBill slapped a set of 5.13's in his, and he said he loves it!

Now, I'm no Differential expert, so I'll just attempt to repeat what Devin @ Unitrax told me. He said something about the Carrier would need to be changed if a gear lower than 4.56's were used(If I remember correctly??).

I'm currently on the waiting list at Unitrax for a set of 4.56's. Apparantly they're having problems getting the installation kits for our Diffs, so it's been a couple months now. Hopefully by Spring Rear-End parts will be more plentiful, and different gear ratios will be more readily available, because I think I would like to install at least 4.88's (maybe 5.13's??), as I have no plans of Forced Induction - ever.

The computer shouldn't be a problem at all. Our Diffs house the speed sensor which means our speedo's automatically adjust when gears are changed, which is one good thing!

FWIW, from what others have reported, I think we're looking at around ~$750 to swap in 4.56's. Dunno exactly what parts were changed other than gears though? And I don't know if a lower gear will end up costing more to get installed? Hopefully others will chime in and share their experiences.
Thanks Hamrhead! Appreciate the info!! :)
 

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srt10vipertruck said:
Thanks Hamrhead! Appreciate the info!! :)
yo fellas. JEGS has a 456 "KIT" that has everything needed for the switch, INCLUDING an installation video! it is only like $300!!!!!!!! got one coming, checked with a few rear end shops, it is EXACTLY WHAT WE NEED TO DO THE JOB! check em out :cool:
 

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BOOMER said:
yo fellas. JEGS has a 456 "KIT" that has everything needed for the switch, INCLUDING an installation video! it is only like $300!!!!!!!! got one coming, checked with a few rear end shops, it is EXACTLY WHAT WE NEED TO DO THE JOB! check em out :cool:
but you need a HIGH HIGH PSI Impact to put the crush bearing in on the rear end. Don't think this is something you can do with hand tools.

Also, you have to setup the gearing (meshing) set up perfectly. Using shims.

I did one a few years ago and will NEVER do one again.
 

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Thanks for the Head-Up BOOMER!

BTW, Would ya have a Jegs Part# on that? Personally, I'm not 100% sure what type of differential we have?

Oh, and let us know how it works out since you have one on the way!

TIA :cool:
 

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srt10vipertruck said:
Thanks Hamrhead! Appreciate the info!! :)
Just keep in mind what long-term plans you may have for your SRT. IF you do plan to supercharge it someday, you may not want a much lower gear, if at all. With the added power of a SC, I'd have to agree with Wikdsvt, something like a 5.13/4.88 may make the truck useless in first gear, as you'd end up spinning very easily.

Has anyone installed Gears AND some type of Forced Induction yet? If yes, how's traction in 1st and 2nd? :eek: :D
 

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gears

Hey guys we have been through this before,the experts say anyhing lower than 4.10 needs a carrier with the swap,because I went 5.13s my install had a specific problem,the ringgear's inside tooth rubbed on the pin that goes through the carrier,talked to the gear people they rcommened either take some material off the pin or ever so lightly off the inside of the gear,the guy who did the work is a pro-mod racer mechanic all his life,he thought taking ever so small amount off the inside tooth was the way to go to get the needed clearence,that was the tricky part of mine ,the 4.88s might not have that problem,because of the thickness of the gear.
The truck needs lower gears why in the heck do we need a truck that runs upwards of 50 some miles per hour infirst gear,at 70 my truck runs arond 1700-1800rpms in6th,I do not drive a hundred MPH ALL THE TIME,lower gears makes it more fun,and it does not just burn the tires,it is quicker,because it reacts faster,you stay in a better rpm range
 

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gears

It is true if you S-C OR Twin turbo,you might not want the gear ratio that much lower,but as every car truck increases it's horse power traction becomes a problem,I have a manual trany so I can shift thur the gears,our motors have a nice sound,I feel when you get a S-C SWITCH OUT YOUR GEARS,it is only 700-800 bucks. if you put something thats to low, but have something that works for your driving style.
I think half the clutch problems are due to people driving their trucks hard, and having a 4.10 gear on a 33" high tire,get the right gear back there and evryone will have less problems
Gearheadbill
 

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gearheadbill said:
Hey guys we have been through this before,the experts say anyhing lower than 4.10 needs a carrier with the swap,because I went 5.13s my install had a specific problem,the ringgear's inside tooth rubbed on the pin that goes through the carrier,talked to the gear people they rcommened either take some material off the pin or ever so lightly off the inside of the gear,the guy who did the work is a pro-mod racer mechanic all his life,he thought taking ever so small amount off the inside tooth was the way to go to get the needed clearence,that was the tricky part of mine ,the 4.88s might not have that problem,because of the thickness of the gear.
The truck needs lower gears why in the heck do we need a truck that runs upwards of 50 some miles per hour infirst gear,at 70 my truck runs arond 1700-1800rpms in6th,I do not drive a hundred MPH ALL THE TIME,lower gears makes it more fun,and it does not just burn the tires,it is quicker,because it reacts faster,you stay in a better rpm range
well said. you can go as low as 4:56 but that is it with out changing the carrier. the jegs # is 836-69-0053-1K $339.99 for $99 you can get the rear end pinion set up tool kit #778-66516 it includes dial indicator and extensions for those of you who dont have a dial indicator. guys this is easy ****, do it. :cool:
 

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BOOMER -

Are you planning on installing this yourself? And How Soon?

I appreciate the part #, but I would like to hear how this works out for you.

Would you have any idea how much a carrier would cost?
 

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Hamrhead said:
BOOMER -

Are you planning on installing this yourself? And How Soon?

I appreciate the part #, but I would like to hear how this works out for you.

Would you have any idea how much a carrier would cost?
i will be doing this next week, so i will keep you posted, i have done this before, it is simple. i dont know anything about the carrier $, since i have no plans to go any deeper than a 4:56, and that is the max our carrier can take. :cool:
 

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BOOMER said:
well said. you can go as low as 4:56 but that is it with out changing the carrier. the jegs # is 836-69-0053-1K $339.99 for $99 you can get the rear end pinion set up tool kit #778-66516 it includes dial indicator and extensions for those of you who dont have a dial indicator. guys this is easy ****, do it. :cool:
BOOMER, I could be wrong but I think that those gears are for the Dana 60 but we have the Dana Super 60. The gears are supposed to be different. They will work but just require extra shimming. I thought it was something about the thickness of the ring gear? Please correct me if I'm wrong.


Wikdsvt said:
but you need a HIGH HIGH PSI Impact to put the crush bearing in on the rear end. Don't think this is something you can do with hand tools.

Also, you have to setup the gearing (meshing) set up perfectly. Using shims.
Wikdsvt, our rear ends are a little funky and don’t use a crush sleeve, just shims and torque to achieve the proper bearing preload. So along with shimming the carrier side to side and pinion depth, the stupid pinion bearings are shimmed too.
 

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i tried to start a thread 12-27 about what i was being told about the gears could you guys check it out and give me a reply about what im being told? .......thanks
 
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