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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Intake manifold removal:


This is what it looks like before starting.



1. Start by removing the air cover lid, followed by the large air hose running from the air box to the throttle body intake. There is an air-temp sensor in the air hose that needs to be disconnected from the engine electrical harness near the throttle body, two slotted screwdriver band clamps at each end of the air hose, and a breather hose at the air box that all need to be disconnected.

2. Next, start on the throttle body (TB). The throttle WOT switch has an electrical connector on the passenger side, and there are 3 throttle cables that need to be disconnected on the driver's side. Once you get these three disconnected, you might as well pull off the throttle bracket. 2ea 11mm bolts out and off she comes. There's also a vacuum hose connected under the TB. Once it's all disconnected, remove the four mounting bolts. You can use a socket, but it's best to use a torq bit (T-30). Once all four bolts are out, the TB should come right off. Just for grins, look inside the manifold. If you see some oil pooled in there, it's normal and is coming from the passenger valve cover breather hose. You can stop this oil collection if you use a JMB catch can. http://jmbperformance.com/store/prod...roducts_id=106











3. Now it's time to start disconnecting more stuff off the manifold. There is a sensor mounted at the front left and the front right of the manifold. Both sensors are held on with two small black screws that also use a torq bit (T-25).

4. Now we'll focus on the fuel injectors. You do NOT need to bleed the pressure out of the fuel system unless you plan to completely remove the rails from the engine bay (which you don't need to do). To bleed, disconnect the battery, then use a small screwdriver and depress the pin under the cap on the passenger side rail. It is recommended to pull the electrical harness plugs from the injectors BEFORE you unbolt the injector rails from the manifold. These need to be disconnected because each injector harness plug wire runs down between the manifold runners. They have to come off. There are two small tabs on the side of each injector that hold on the connector. I tried using small screwdrivers to pry the sides away from the injector's tabs while pushing up from below. I ended up cracking a total of four of the side plates on the connectors. This won't affect anything, can't be seen, and won't hinder holding down the connectors. If you can just pull them off, all the better.
-Once you get the harness disconnected from all 10 injectors, pull off 3ea 11mm bolts from both injector rails and just gently pull upwards on the rail. It WILL pop off, injectors and all. Note, there is a small grey fuel line that runs from the driver's rail to the passenger rail at the front of the rails, this does NOT need to be disconected. Leave it connected, and take the rails off as a single unit. If you want to remove them completely from the engine bay, simply disconnect the fuel hose from the rear of the driver's rail. You need a special tool to do this without risk of messing anything up. If you don't have one, buy one.











5. Next, there is a vacuum line at the driver's front of the manifold that has to be disconnected, and a smaller line near the rear of the driver's side of the manifold. Once these are disconnected, you should have everything disconnected to start pulling off manifold bolts. Then, lastly, there are some yellow tabs that are pressed into the manifold underneath into threaded holes that hold the injector harness underneath the manifold. There are 3 on the passenger side, and two on the driver's side. The best way to get them out is to use two screwdrivers, one on each side and pry upwards. You can see them in the last photo below.

6. Now is time to start on those bolts. You can get almost half of them out easily with a 10mm box-end wrench. These are the outer bolts. Next comes the inner bolts. These are the tough ones. I recommend starting with the rearmost bolts and work your way forward. I tried several tools to no avail. A socket will not fit, it hits the manifold. A Box-end wrench will not fit, it hits the manifold. I then proceeded to a T30 torq bit held by a long 1/4" box-end wrench. The photo below is with a small 1/4" wrench before I upgraded to a long brake-bleeder 1/4" wrench. I did use this wrench set-up on a few bolts.



This succeeded in loosening two of the inward bolts, but started stripping the third. Next I hit on the best solution. I took a 10mm box-end wrench, and took it to my bench grinder and ground it down. This was successful to loosen the remaining bolts. Not only is it difficult to loosen the bolts, once loose, it is difficult to get your fingers to them to spin them out. Good luck!




7. This is what the manifold looks like all disconnected and ready to come off...




8. This is after it is pulled off. Be sure to plug up the intake holes AS SOON AS THE MANIFOLD IS OFF. Don't take the risk of making a $5K mistake! Most say you can reuse the intake manifold gaskets at least once. You should look them over closely to make sure they look OK before reuse. Mine look fine and will be reused for the installation.



 

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Discussion Starter #2
I just decided at 0430 dark hours to try allen bolts to reinstall. Got OOB, measured the bolts (they are 1/4" x 20 at 1" long), and placed an order for #100 chromed bolts ($1 apiece) and #100 grade 5 chromed washers ($0.44 apiece).

Will see if they are easier to install. Will also replace valve cover bolts, water pump bolts, thermostat bolts, throttle body bolts, you get the idea. I figure to use about #80 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
"Snatching off", we'll see about that one!!

http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=10241

Troy my good man, might I suggest you wait until I get mine and see if they work before you spend the money? You may not like them, but your coin.

I think they'll look awesome holding on the carbon fiber valve covers!
 

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Nice work Tom, having completed that task a short time ago I can say that is a very good "how to" you have writen there!!

Ian.

PS Your'e engine is sooooo clean have you ever driven the truck out of the showroom lol.
 

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He might not answer for a week, he's out of country
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well? How did these work?
Yea, I won't be back until tonight!

My polished intake is at home (arrived two days ago), my valve covers are at home, my carbon catch can is at home, but alas, I am not.

I hope to get everything installed on Wednesday when I'm post call from the ER or next week. Then I'll let you know how those Allen fasteners worked. I think they're gonna work fine.

I'll post photos ASAP. If my "new" intake got dinged again during shipping from Fed Ex, you won't need the internet to hear my scream...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Intake installation:

Each gasket has (or should have) two little black plastic press-in retainers at both ends. Place the gasket in place, and these two black retainers press into small holes in the heads. This holds the gaskets in place while positioning the intake, then gently lower the intake into place, it's really pretty painless.

As for reinstalling the bolts, I chose to go with some Chrome allen bolts and chrome washers. I cannot overstate how much easier it is to install (or remove later) these bolts. A standard sized allen wrench can get a great bite on these bolts, and you get a full swing (6 swings = full turn) even on the back bolts except for the dreaded #9 bolt on the drivers side (inner bolt). I only dropped one bolt into the valley during installation, and was able to easily retrieve it with a magnet-stick.

For tightening, start at the middle (runners for cylinders 5 & 6) and gently tighten the inner bolts, then do the outer bolts at the middle on both sides. Then move to the bolts for the runners for cylinders 3 & 4, and 7 & 8. Lastly do the bolts for 1 & 2, then 9 & 10. The manual states to torque to 10 inch pounds initially, then 95 inch pounds. I have a pretty calibrated wrist.

One more thing, before installing the manifold, be sure to visually look down each intake port of the heads to be sure nothing fell in there. If it did, this is your last chance to catch it before you cough up several grand to Tony...
 

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One more thing, before installing the manifold, be sure to visually look down each intake port of the heads to be sure nothing fell in there. If it did, this is your last chance to catch it before you cough up several grand to Tony...
haha, i bet tony is in the corner with a evil grin on his face saying "come on, someone drop something and forget to check, i want my several grand"
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think he was BORN with that grin, it changes slightly when he gets in close proximity to any boobies...

 
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ohhh man thats jsut wrong Spud LOLOLOLOL dang buddy , thanks for the laugh to start off the day:fing02:
 

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Wasn't there something about a weird size bolt somewhere on the intake? Like a TC-30 torx bit. Didn't see you mention anything about it. Gonna be doing this very soon, just wanna make sure. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The factory intake bolts can be removed using a T-30 torq bit if you have the tools and adequate access to the bolt.
 

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I noticed a little mistake on the bolt sizes for the throttle bracket. They are 10mm, not 11mm! Check just to make sure, I have a 2006, but I doubt there would be a difference.

As for the torx bit I mentioned, I found the post the other day, now I can't find it again. But it was a TP-27 bit, the tamper resistant ones that have the indentation at the tip. Just wondering where it's used, as I bought it a while back. Think BigDave? posted about it, and Troy more recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think they were 10mm, I changed the how to, will have to check on the Torq size tomorrow... thanks for the tip!!
 

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Never mind, I just realized it is the same size as a T30 so it also fits all the bolts. My friend used it on the closed end of a ratcheting wrench, and it worked awesome. Thanks!
 

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Do I need to use Mopar Gasket sealant on any of the gaskets before installing (intake manifold, thermostat)? I bought some a while back when I bought the intake gaskets, but wasn't sure if anyone actually used it? Thanks
 
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