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Do I need to use Mopar Gasket sealant on any of the gaskets before installing (intake manifold, thermostat)? I bought some a while back when I bought the intake gaskets, but wasn't sure if anyone actually used it? Thanks
no sealant on no gaskets

now run down to the local bolt store, or lowes and get some stainless allen heads to mount stuff with,

thats one thing we are adding to the site, is a complete stainless kit for all the bolts, makes a nice finishing touch man
 

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no sealant on no gaskets

now run down to the local bolt store, or lowes and get some stainless allen heads to mount stuff with,

thats one thing we are adding to the site, is a complete stainless kit for all the bolts, makes a nice finishing touch man
Do you know exactly which ones to get? Do I need washers? All I want are the intake manifold ones right now, the rest I can buy from you, Tony! Tom, can you point me to the correct ones? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=10241

These are a perfect fit. Get the chrome washers with them. I used them all over the engine, not just on the intake. They work for the valve covers, the thermostat housing, the throttle body... many places.
 

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Spudracer, a quick note on how I got to the inner bolts without too much frustration.

I ended up buying a 1/4" drive 6" long and 3" long socket wrench extension and a torx head socket for it. The 6" length ended up being too short so if I had to redo it I would try to get a 9" length extension. I taped the socket to the extension to ensure that I wouldn't loose it below the intake and then just reached the inner bolts through small holes on the topside of the intake. Hard to explain but the pics should help. To reinstall the bolts I lightly taped the bolt head to the torx socket and once it was tight I pulled the socket off. Hope this helps someone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Holy sneakiness!! Good idea...
 

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that's exactly how i did it...especially #9 inner bolt...set the bolt in by hand, then sent the 6" through, then added the 3", then added the driver...

other then that...it wasn't bad at all...

at least...not like i've read for the last few years...
 

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http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=10241

These are a perfect fit. Get the chrome washers with them. I used them all over the engine, not just on the intake. They work for the valve covers, the thermostat housing, the throttle body... many places.
Tom, sorry for being a pain, but do you know exactly which ones? I've been to that page, but there is a list of about 20 different sizes. Can you tell me the size, or by the (add $1.00) since they are all different. And where are the washers and what size. I'm scared I'll get the wrong ones.:crying: Also, are they the exact same for all the parts you mentioned? Again, sorry, and thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
1/4" x 20 at 1" length (fully threaded)

Washers are 1/4" chrome SAE
http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=20231

Yes, those same bolts will fit for all those parts mentioned. The washers may need to be trimmed for at least one spot on the thermostat housing, and I would go with bolts only if you're using a BBK throttle body, no room for the washers.
 

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Awesome, thanks! I'm gonna take a ride to a couple stores around here just to see if they carry them, doubt it though. I'll put an order in later if not!
 

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Looks like to save some work you can leave the throttle body, sensors, fuel rail and injectors all in place and remove them as one unit, just disconnect the fuel supply line at the rear drivers side. Any issue in doing that?

As for the fuel injector wires, appears they need to be tucked in under the intake for removal, then fished back out between the runners once the intake is back in place.
 

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Yes i suppose you could leave it on to save some time but it won't save you that much time. Easier to get stuff out of your way. All you need is a long 1/4 inch extension or 2 and go through top of intake to remove bolts
 

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Intake manifold removal:
Hi Tom - do you still have the pictures????

This is what it looks like before starting.



1. Start by removing the air cover lid, followed by the large air hose running from the air box to the throttle body intake. There is an air-temp sensor in the air hose that needs to be disconnected from the engine electrical harness near the throttle body, two slotted screwdriver band clamps at each end of the air hose, and a breather hose at the air box that all need to be disconnected.

2. Next, start on the throttle body (TB). The throttle WOT switch has an electrical connector on the passenger side, and there are 3 throttle cables that need to be disconnected on the driver's side. Once you get these three disconnected, you might as well pull off the throttle bracket. 2ea 11mm bolts out and off she comes. There's also a vacuum hose connected under the TB. Once it's all disconnected, remove the four mounting bolts. You can use a socket, but it's best to use a torq bit (T-30). Once all four bolts are out, the TB should come right off. Just for grins, look inside the manifold. If you see some oil pooled in there, it's normal and is coming from the passenger valve cover breather hose. You can stop this oil collection if you use a JMB catch can. http://jmbperformance.com/store/prod...roducts_id=106











3. Now it's time to start disconnecting more stuff off the manifold. There is a sensor mounted at the front left and the front right of the manifold. Both sensors are held on with two small black screws that also use a torq bit (T-25).

4. Now we'll focus on the fuel injectors. You do NOT need to bleed the pressure out of the fuel system unless you plan to completely remove the rails from the engine bay (which you don't need to do). To bleed, disconnect the battery, then use a small screwdriver and depress the pin under the cap on the passenger side rail. It is recommended to pull the electrical harness plugs from the injectors BEFORE you unbolt the injector rails from the manifold. These need to be disconnected because each injector harness plug wire runs down between the manifold runners. They have to come off. There are two small tabs on the side of each injector that hold on the connector. I tried using small screwdrivers to pry the sides away from the injector's tabs while pushing up from below. I ended up cracking a total of four of the side plates on the connectors. This won't affect anything, can't be seen, and won't hinder holding down the connectors. If you can just pull them off, all the better.
-Once you get the harness disconnected from all 10 injectors, pull off 3ea 11mm bolts from both injector rails and just gently pull upwards on the rail. It WILL pop off, injectors and all. Note, there is a small grey fuel line that runs from the driver's rail to the passenger rail at the front of the rails, this does NOT need to be disconected. Leave it connected, and take the rails off as a single unit. If you want to remove them completely from the engine bay, simply disconnect the fuel hose from the rear of the driver's rail. You need a special tool to do this without risk of messing anything up. If you don't have one, buy one.











5. Next, there is a vacuum line at the driver's front of the manifold that has to be disconnected, and a smaller line near the rear of the driver's side of the manifold. Once these are disconnected, you should have everything disconnected to start pulling off manifold bolts. Then, lastly, there are some yellow tabs that are pressed into the manifold underneath into threaded holes that hold the injector harness underneath the manifold. There are 3 on the passenger side, and two on the driver's side. The best way to get them out is to use two screwdrivers, one on each side and pry upwards. You can see them in the last photo below.

6. Now is time to start on those bolts. You can get almost half of them out easily with a 10mm box-end wrench. These are the outer bolts. Next comes the inner bolts. These are the tough ones. I recommend starting with the rearmost bolts and work your way forward. I tried several tools to no avail. A socket will not fit, it hits the manifold. A Box-end wrench will not fit, it hits the manifold. I then proceeded to a T30 torq bit held by a long 1/4" box-end wrench. The photo below is with a small 1/4" wrench before I upgraded to a long brake-bleeder 1/4" wrench. I did use this wrench set-up on a few bolts.



This succeeded in loosening two of the inward bolts, but started stripping the third. Next I hit on the best solution. I took a 10mm box-end wrench, and took it to my bench grinder and ground it down. This was successful to loosen the remaining bolts. Not only is it difficult to loosen the bolts, once loose, it is difficult to get your fingers to them to spin them out. Good luck!




7. This is what the manifold looks like all disconnected and ready to come off...




8. This is after it is pulled off. Be sure to plug up the intake holes AS SOON AS THE MANIFOLD IS OFF. Don't take the risk of making a $5K mistake! Most say you can reuse the intake manifold gaskets at least once. You should look them over closely to make sure they look OK before reuse. Mine look fine and will be reused for the installation.


 

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I'll be doing it in about 2 to 4 weeks. I'll be changing my wires and painting my manifold. I'll post some. It's hot here in Texas so I'll be doing it at night. I'll be following his steps as well. I have the tools they mentioned as well. I'm waiting on my throttle body from JTS Venom,their materials are short so even if I don't receive it I'll still do the job. Will be installing new gaskets as well.I already did the valve covers and thermostat and silicone hoses from Samco Sport.Will be steam cleaning my engine as well.
26602
 

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I'll be doing it in about 2 to 4 weeks. I'll be changing my wires and painting my manifold. I'll post some. It's hot here in Texas so I'll be doing it at night. I'll be following his steps as well. I have the tools they mentioned as well. I'm waiting on my throttle body from JTS Venom,their materials are short so even if I don't receive it I'll still do the job. Will be installing new gaskets as well.I already did the valve covers and thermostat and silicone hoses from Samco Sport.Will be steam cleaning my engine as well. View attachment 26602
Looking good
I have replaced all hoses and am just waiting for the gaskets so I can do the Valve covers
Have also changed the Air filter box to polished stainless
 
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