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OK - so I have finally got this off..........took a little longer than I anticipated, but we got there
Here is my version - I did copy the original with some slight differences

This is what it looks like before starting. - Please note that I have already removed the Valve covers

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1. Start by removing the air cover lid, followed by the large air hose running from the air box to the throttle body intake. There is an air-temp sensor in the air hose that needs to be disconnected from the engine electrical harness near the throttle body, two slotted screwdriver band clamps at each end of the air hose, and a breather hose at the air box that all need to be disconnected.

2. Next, start on the throttle body (TB). The throttle WOT switch has an electrical connector on the passenger side, and there are 3 throttle cables that need to be disconnected on the driver's side. Once you get these three disconnected, you might as well pull off the throttle bracket. 2ea 11mm bolts out and off she comes. There's also a vacuum hose connected under the TB. Once it's all disconnected, remove the four mounting bolts. You can use a socket, but it's best to use a torq bit (T-30). Once all four bolts are out, the TB should come right off.


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3. Now it's time to start disconnecting more stuff off the manifold. There is a sensor mounted at the front left and the front right of the manifold. Both sensors are held on with two small black screws that also use a torq bit (T-25). (see in above pic with blue arrows)

4. Now we'll focus on the fuel injectors. You do NOT need to bleed the pressure out of the fuel system unless you plan to completely remove the rails from the engine bay (which you don't need to do). To bleed, disconnect the battery, then use a small screwdriver and depress the pin under the cap on the passenger side rail. It is recommended to pull the electrical harness plugs from the injectors BEFORE you unbolt the injector rails from the manifold. These need to be disconnected because each injector harness plug wire runs down between the manifold runners. They have to come off. There are two small tabs on the side of each injector that hold on the connector. I used my nails!!! placed either side and pulled up and for the most part got them off, but I did end up cracking a total of 3 of the side plates on the connectors. This won't affect anything, can't be seen, and won't hinder holding down the connectors. If you can just pull them off, all the better.
-Once you get the harness disconnected from all 10 injectors, undo 3ea 11mm bolts from both injector rails and just gently pull upwards on the rail - I actually levered a screwdriver under the rail brackets to assist. It WILL pop off, injectors and all. Note, there is a small grey fuel line that runs from the driver's rail to the passenger rail at the front of the rails, this does NOT need to be disconected. Leave it connected, and take the rails off as a single unit. If you want to remove them completely from the engine bay, simply disconnect the fuel hose from the rear of the driver's rail. You need a special tool to do this without risk of messing anything up. If you don't have one, buy one.

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5. Next, there is a vacuum line at the driver's front of the manifold that has to be disconnected, and a smaller line near the rear of the driver's side of the manifold. Once these are disconnected, you should have everything disconnected to start pulling off manifold bolts. Then, lastly, there are some yellow tabs that are pressed into the manifold underneath into threaded holes that hold the injector harness underneath the manifold. There are 3 on the passenger side, and two on the driver's side. The best way to get them out is to use two screwdrivers, one on each side and pry upwards. You can see them in the last photo below.

6. Now is time to start on those bolts. You can get the outer lot out easily with a 11mm box-end Ratchet Spanner. Next comes the inner bolts. I used a couple of tools, but found that the best option is...... 1/4 drive 11mm socket with a 150mm & 30mm extension. This slides nicely between the holes on the top of the manifold and gives you all the space, EXECPT for the last 1 on the drivers side
For this the socket got wedged so I used a extra long (150mm) T30.
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7. This is after it is pulled off. Be sure to plug up the intake holes AS SOON AS THE MANIFOLD IS OFF. Don't take the risk of making a $5K mistake! Most say you can reuse the intake manifold gaskets at least once. You should look them over closely to make sure they look OK before reuse. Mine look fine and will be reused for the installation.
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Now its off for powdercoating with the valve covers and wheels :cool:
I have also ordered a new set of red leads from The Viper Store (https://theviperstore.com/RAM-SRT10_Products_Main_Menu.htm) and some replacement Stainless Steel heads for the inners
I have to say that the original instructions were amazing and gave me so much more confidence
 

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Sweet bro. Still triple digits hot over here. And thanks for the pictures and tips. Please post an update of installation. 馃憤
 

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So I finally did it today. Temperature was in the 80's. I'm stripping the manifold and will be painting it height heat black. I removed the wheel wells it made it simpler. Probably be back together this Sunday. Thanks for the motivation.
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Looking good - have got all my bits back from the Powder coater, but just waiting for the plug leads before I start the reassemble!!!!
 

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Finally installed it. Much easier than disassemble. Only bolt that's difficult is that same one second to the rear drivers side. I let the fuel pump warm up like 4 seconds to feed fuel to the injectors since I also removed them for cleaning. It started right up let it warm up for about five mins went for a short drive. So far so good.
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Finally got the Sparkplug leads and completed the rebuild - Am so pleased with the finish and how phase 1 has gone
So now its getting the exhaust sorted, but that will be a winter (when I have saved enough pennies) job :cool:
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So..............took the truck out today for a run to a Tyre place (about 15 miles), it ran great, until i got there - I shut it off, gave the guy the keys and then it wouldnt start - like a flat bat - managed to get it going with a Jump, but then its started dying after a while
On way back from Garage, it died whilst driving as if I ran out of fuel and wouldnt start until it had cooled a little (15 mins) - did this several times on the way back home

Please tell me that someone has experienced this and know what the issue is - I have my first Car Show on Sunday and would be gutted to miss it
@JTS Venom Performance (Tony) any idea's?
 
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