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this not the gospel, so do this at your own risk/abilities so if your cant do it take it to a trained tech. but this will give you some insight as to how it is done.
i used RFI bleeder kit we sell thru our store.
guys this might help if you are having a F&*K of a time trying yourself or your dealer is trying to bleed your clutch.
i used a RFI (reverse fluid injector) its a pistol grip syringe basically, that acts as a hand held master cylinder.
ideally, you would have youre slave cylinder out of the tranny on the bench for this. but it can be done in the car as well.
you will want to remove the throw out bearing so the spring under it can come can off of the slave cylinder. (on the stock truck slave there is a spring clip, on the Viper slave you twist the throw bearing so the retaining tab lines up with the removal slot.)
loosen the bleeder & compress the piston in the slave by sliding the throw out bearing back on & squeezing it down until it stops at the bottem. inject fluid into the slave thru the bleeder port until it pushes the throw out bearing out until it is even with the end of the slave cylinder. tigtnen the bleeder, & reassemble the throw out bearing & spring assy.
THIS IS WHERE MY SYSTEM HAD A PROBLEM. i had air between the piston cups. inject fluid thru the poppet valve at the end of the line up to the master cylinder, being carfull not to overfill the resevoir. do this until no more bubbles appear. then remove the master cylinder from the truck -just 2 bolts- & remove the clip that holds the plunger assy in the master. then remove the plunger holding it upside down with the braided line hanging down as not to let air back in to it. fill up the master cylinder body with new brake fluid to the very top. slowly & carefully minding not to tear a piston cup assemble the plunger. it will over flow the brake fluid, thats the idea so it dosent have trapped air in it. you may need any assistant to hold down the plunger so you can put the spring clip back in. wipe everything down & reinstall the MC.
you have no air in the system, when your pedal has no more than 3/4-1" of freeplay before you feel pressure with your hand.
to tell if your slave or MC is the problem, disconnect the line from the slave by pushing in the plastic clip with pliers & pushing then pulling on the line while pushing in the plastic sleeve. if the pedal is immediatly hard to push (with your hand) the slave has air in it. if is spongy the MC (and also maybe the slave) has air in it.
i used Motul Racing Brake Fluid, we use it on our roadracing bikes, as it has one of the highest boiling points and is packaged in nitrogen so it wont asorb moisture. this stuff is GOOD!
also, instulate the clutch line a little better with some heat wrap, and on the earlier model '04's, make sure your line is secured to the firewall away from the exhaust pipe. i actually used header wrap around the exhaust pipe there to keep heat away from the clutch, line & tranny, i do both sides when we do an install. it keeps the cab area cooler, and the tranny as well!
 

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Bleeding the clutch can be difficult. To eliminate many of the SRT Ram clutch
hydraulic issues we reroute the clutch master cylinder line away from the converter and wrap it with some DEI heat wrap. Then we pressure bleed the system with DOT 4 fluid. The pressure bleeder is the only way to go.

Hope this helps, thanx Boomer.

Dan Cragin
DC Performance
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dan Cragin said:
Bleeding the clutch can be difficult. To eliminate many of the SRT Ram clutch
hydraulic issues we reroute the clutch master cylinder line away from the converter and wrap it with some DEI heat wrap. Then we pressure bleed the system with DOT 4 fluid. The pressure bleeder is the only way to go.

Hope this helps, thanx Boomer.

Dan Cragin
DC Performance
right on Dan! the pressure bleeder saves us a lot of time here at the shop. i couldnt live without them!
 

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Please forgive my lack of understanding, guys. What's the point of bleeding a clutch? What's it supposed to do? I have a manual transmission in my car, so this peaked my interest.
Clutch fluid will deteriate over time due to heat and moisture.....this will cause shifting problems..some flush the clutch fluids everytime the engine oil is changed...probably overkill but......
 

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At each oil change? Ugh. Bigtime overkill (unless you're racing).

Clutch fluid is DOT 4 brake fluid.

The simple schedule would be to change it out every time you change your brake fluid (once a year, depending on the amount you drive).

DC is correct about the bleeding: PRESSURE is the key.
A Mity-Vac kit will work great for your brakes and clutch (Wal-Mart...about $30). A wise investment.
 

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Yes. You can use DOT3 if that's what your cap says.
It's okay to mix DOT3 and DOT4.
But next time you bleed it, switch it all over to DOT4.

AVOID DOT5!!!
 

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Have you tried DOT5?

I just read an article on it and I can see some major problems with it but I was just curious how well it worked
IF you started fresh or purged out the non silcone brake fluid (DOT3 or 4 or 5.1).
 
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silicone fluids will actually retain water, they work well , but have to be chnged out very very often, better left to jsut race vehicles
 

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DOT5 is fine, but as Tony said it needs to be changed about 3-4x as often.

And DOT5 *CAN NOT* be mixed with any other DOT fluid.
And it's usually more expensive. :)
 

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Hey guys so I have a question. I decided to replace my clutch fluid because I was having trouble shifting. My truck would miss a shift here and there, almost like I shifted without the clutch at all. It was explained to me that the clutch fluid might be the problem. So I bled my clutch the way it was posted here and as soon as I was done I put the truck into first gear. It went in like butter. BUT, when I tried reverse, the tranny acted as if I was in motion forward and didnt allow me to shift to reverse. When bleeding the clutch, the fluid came out somewhat clear, yet foggy. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!:17:
 

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Guys

The way I bleed the brakes on my motorcycle is do a few of the normal pumps and releases of the bleeder, then apply pressure and hold it there over night with piece of rod or in my case a zip tie.

What this does, is forces the air bubbles to naturally rise in the fluid back to the main fluid tank if the pressure is applied over night.
 

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What this does, is forces the air bubbles to naturally rise in the fluid back to the main fluid tank if the pressure is applied over night.
That is the 1st time I have heard of that... :)

Is there anyone that can confirm this ????

If it is True (and I don't have any reason to disbelieve it) I am going to give it a try.... :) :) :)
 

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Guys,

I have been racing motorcycles for years and that is the way we bleed the brakes. Just zip tie the brake lever to the handle bars over night, then the next morning give it a few pumps and wahla nice and tight brakes. I just did the same proceedure on my C3500 truck brakes, just held it in place with a prop rod over night and pumped it up in the morning. It works like a charm.
 
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