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Discussion Starter #1
Well I installed my Magna-flow this morning, no beer before noon!! :mad:
The install came off without a hitch. I forget who offered the silicone spray idea for the rubber mounts but THANKS, that was a great help. Yes I do have leaks I will have to get it welded up. I also over-tightened a clamp and it broke :rolleyes:

QUESTION: While I was under there I noticed oil residue on the underside. I cleaned it up and when I started it up after the install I noticed some oil dripping from the back of the oil pan!! I just had it in for an oil change and the dealer never said a word about this. I have not driven it 200 miles since the oil change so I am sure it was evident then :mad: Any Ideas as to why I am getting this dripping?

Thanks Mike
 

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I also broke a clamp, the bolts are soft!! I replaced the one I broke with hardened bolts. Just a tip for others!! Throw the stock bolts away, and put hardened ones in. This will allow you to clamp down harder, and stop the leaks. Welding will make it harder to change in the future( headders, cats..ect) Welding also promotes rust, unless you use SS wire in your welder.......My two cents.
 

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Loose oil pan bolt(s) ? I would check em to make sure they are tight.


Please let us know what the dealer does to fix this as I am sure you are going to take it in!

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #4
71demon said:
I also broke a clamp, the bolts are soft!! I replaced the one I broke with hardened bolts. Just a tip for others!! Throw the stock bolts away, and put hardened ones in. This will allow you to clamp down harder, and stop the leaks. Welding will make it harder to change in the future( headders, cats..ect) Welding also promotes rust, unless you use SS wire in your welder.......My two cents.
Demon, I was not aware that you could change the bolts on those clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sitedrifter said:
Loose oil pan bolt(s) ? I would check em to make sure they are tight.


Please let us know what the dealer does to fix this as I am sure you are going to take it in!

Mark
Good idea Mark, I will check them after lunch. And yeah i will keep the board informed!
 

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Yes, we just got some hardened bolts of the same size, and grinded the heads oval, so they work just like the provided ones. Once you do this, you can tighten till your hearts content(or the pipe crushes).
 

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See if you can tell where the oil is weeping. Don't f with the whole gasket - you have to unbolt the motor to change it! Just take the offending bolts out and put back with some sealant. Congrats on the install. Toughest part of doin mine was getting the stock junk off!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks womsterr, I took it out for a ride, Wow why did I wait sooo long to get one of these. You guys were not kidding now it has the sound to go with all that muscle!!!! :D

On the oil issue. I just crawled under and it was a mess again. :( It appears to be coming from the main seal. I just checked my dealer slip from my oil change and I discovered something. According to the manual this motor takes 8.5 quarts with a filter. The dealer charged me for 11 quarts. I checked the dip stick and it is reading about 1/4 inch above the max.... Is this normal or did the dealer F**k up. :mad:
 

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Milo55 said:
Thanks womsterr, I took it out for a ride, Wow why did I wait sooo long to get one of these. You guys were not kidding now it has the sound to go with all that muscle!!!! :D

On the oil issue. I just crawled under and it was a mess again. :( It appears to be coming from the main seal. I just checked my dealer slip from my oil change and I discovered something. According to the manual this motor takes 8.5 quarts with a filter. The dealer charged me for 11 quarts. I checked the dip stick and it is reading about 1/4 inch above the max.... Is this normal or did the dealer F**k up. :mad:
dealer ****ed up, your truck is overfilled. drain it and put some new stuff in it, sorry but your gonna have to bite the bullet on this one. Then go to the dealership and cuss them out.

oil should never go passed the max line in any engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
earl lee said:
dealer ****ed up, your truck is overfilled. drain it and put some new stuff in it, sorry but your gonna have to bite the bullet on this one. Then go to the dealership and cuss them out.

oil should never go passed the max line in any engine.
Earl, Do you think this could result in permanent damage?
 

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Really shouldn't be a cause of permanent damage Milo. What happens is if your overfilled the crank starts splashing around and creates froathy oil which reduces your lubrication qualities. I doubt you drove it enough for anything to happen. Could also explain why you weeping oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks womsterr, i am going to drain it in the morning. I will deal with the dealer on Monday! :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Guys, I went to the dealer today. They tell me that my SRT-10 is listed in the DC computer at 11 quarts of oil with a filter. I know this is wrong as my manual states 8.5. Any one out there that has the correct info?????


Thanks Mike :confused:
 

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I put the magnaflow's on also a few days ago, and I love the sound.
And yes the hardest part is getting the old ones off. No leaks yet.

Milo55 if you are a 1/4 inch over the max mark I can guess what it should be.
I have seen 8.5 on everything, and when I changed mine, that topped it.
I know the srt/10 gets a different oil pan (I do not know what the difference is thou), are they maybe looking at the Viper car info, could it be more?
 

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I did find this on a viper site:

Engine 8.3-Liter, OHV, 20-Valve SMPI V-10
Type and Description 90° V-10, liquid-cooled
Displacement 505 cu. in. (8277 cu. cm)
Bore x Stroke 4.03 x 3.96 (102.4 x 100.6)
Valve System OHV, 20 valves, roller-type hydraulic lifters
Fuel Injection Sequential, multi-port electronic
Construction Aluminum alloy block with cast-iron liners, aluminum alloy heads
Compression Ratio 9.6:1
Power (SAE net) 500 bhp (372 kW) @ 5600 rpm (60.4 bhp/L)
Torque (SAE net) 525 lb.-ft. (712 N•m) @ 4200 rpm
Max. Engine Speed 6000 rpm
Fuel Requirement Unleaded premium, 91 octane (R+M)2
Oil Capacity 10.5 qt. (9.9L) Coolant Capacity 12.8 qt. (11.9L)
Emission Controls Four three-way catalytic converters, heated oxygen sensors, engine internal features(a)
Max. Gross Trailer Weight (lbs.) -
(a) Meets Tier 1 standards in all 50 states
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Blueflame, thanks for the info. i tried to tell them that the viper had a different capacity. I even talked to Dave at Roe Racing, A great guy. He could not have been nicer or more helpful. He concurred that the SRT-10 Ram 04, takes 8.5 Quarts. I'm not sure what to do with the dealer. although I do know what I would like to do to them!!! :mad:
 

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I changed the oil and filter in my Viper Srt yesterday and it took an even 10 Qts as stated in the manual. I put 8.5 in my ram 2 weeks ago when I did it. I don't know why they have the wrong info. The oil pan on the viper is different and it is advised that if you track your car the you put the comp. coupe pan on . It has a swiveling pick up. In a high g. left hand turn the viper loses oil pressure and could blow. I've seen mine dip to 20# at gingermanraceway in mich. I don't know if this issue exists on the ram, so if you road course your truck keep an eye on the oil pressure. DC will not warranty the motor either.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks, SNKPWR. Awsome looking rides BTW. I appreciate the feedback. I am convinced that they are looking up the Viper and not the Ram :rolleyes: i have not done any road course racing with my Ram but that is good information to keep in mind! ;)
 
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