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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a new 170 deg thermostat, I bled it until no bubbles were present and replaced the loss anti freeze with a bottle of wetter water. I installed the SCT tune with the 170 on it. My truck temp is all over the place. 160deg while driving normal. When I went to the car wash to rinse the spilled antifreeze from the engine, while it was sitting there idleing for about 3 min the engine temp was at 210 deg. I sprayed the engine and radiator, the temp stopes to 170. If I drive aggressive, the engine temp operates at 190 200. Did I get a bad thermostat?
 
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Most likly not, the temps in tx are high to start, but make sure the fan is one, kicking on early, and if so then you also need to check and make sure the coolant is bleed good,

but sounds to me like the fan isnt comming on, so you need to sit and watch it and make sure the fan is kicking on at 170 degrees
 

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Most likely you have an air lock in the system bleed it again. also you need to add more antifreeze. when your temp is all over the place you are typically low on coolant. start truck and fill radiator itself not reservoir. hope this helps.:fing02:
 

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Most likely you have an air lock in the system bleed it again. also you need to add more antifreeze. when your temp is all over the place you are typically low on coolant. start truck and fill radiator itself not reservoir. hope this helps.:fing02:
I agree. I'm no expert, but I would guess there is still air in the system...
 

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It is after the fact now but it is best to open the bleeder BEFORE you add coolant back into a coolant system that is that low.

And, yes, it sure does sound like there is still air in there; Just open the bleeder for a while and let it purge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys, I am on it. I appreciate the help. I did not check the level from the radiator just the service side. The fan is working though.
 

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Let us know...
 

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Do you have a flash that turns the fans on at the 170 mark correct me if i'm wrong but stock the fans wait until 200 or so to come on.So just adding a 170 thermostat won't keep your temp at 170,it will open but the fan won't come on. While driving with the thermostat open at 170 with all the air flow it would keep it cooler but idleing the fan would need to come on sooner to keep it cooler.Make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Serviced at the radiator and not the reservoir, bleed the system again. Everything runs perfect at 170 deg and stable now. Thanks for all the help.
 

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What is a good 170 Thermostat to get?
 

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Just about to change out my stat, where is this bleeder located that is talked about? My SCT tune is set for a 170 stat and the fan is on all the time and i dont want to burn out my fans due to running all the time to keep it at 170.

thanks
Adam
 

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Just about to change out my stat, where is this bleeder located that is talked about? My SCT tune is set for a 170 stat and the fan is on all the time and i dont want to burn out my fans due to running all the time to keep it at 170.

thanks
Adam
The bleeder is a little nipple on top of the thermostat housing that looks like a grease fitting. Just crack it open with a box-end wrench, then start filling the system at the radiator. Once coolant is flowing freely from the bleeder nipple, then crank her closed and top it off.

Need any more help, just hollar!

I was driving the banana yesterday, was a warm day and had the AC on. Heard a rather loud whining and could feel it in the steering wheel. FELT similar to when I was VERY low on power steering fluid, but SOUNDED much different and quieter. When I got to the park with the girls, popped the hood and decided it was merely the fan being on continuously. Normal??
 

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Thanks for the info, Tom
 

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Yea Tom, I had the same sound and "Feeling" in my hands.. Almost like a Very Faint Grind in the PS Unit... Checked my fluid and it was full... My fans were running when I shut it down, that must have been it...

Thanks, Now I know I am not going any MORE Crazy... :D
 

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Can someone explain to me how these "thermostats" work. I've been told they are weir stats. I don't understand how they work as they never close. There is fluid always flowing through them.

I've been told basically all they do is tell the sensor the truck is getting hot so it dumps more fuel into the engine to cool it as gas is fairly cool. I don't really believe the guy that told me this as he got the information from someone else and neither have experience with these trucks, but may have experience with these "thermostats". I don't see how that cools an engine because to me more fuel=bigger explosion in the block.

I also don't get how a 170 degree thermostat differs from the stock 185 the truck comes with. It doesn't open and close so I don't get it. It seems pretty basic as there are not any moving parts. All I can guess is the copper "nipple" works with the sensor somehow.

Am I missing something obvious or are these 170 "thermostats" not necessary as the flow of fluid never stops anyway? :shrug:
 

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The bleeder is a little nipple on top of the thermostat housing that looks like a grease fitting. Just crack it open with a box-end wrench, then start filling the system at the radiator. Once coolant is flowing freely from the bleeder nipple, then crank her closed and top it off.

Need any more help, just hollar!

I was driving the banana yesterday, was a warm day and had the AC on. Heard a rather loud whining and could feel it in the steering wheel. FELT similar to when I was VERY low on power steering fluid, but SOUNDED much different and quieter. When I got to the park with the girls, popped the hood and decided it was merely the fan being on continuously. Normal??
Yea Tom, I had the same sound and "Feeling" in my hands.. Almost like a Very Faint Grind in the PS Unit... Checked my fluid and it was full... My fans were running when I shut it down, that must have been it...

Thanks, Now I know I am not going any MORE Crazy... :D
Not saying it's going to happen to you guys, but that's what mine started doing before my pump/hose went out. Best sign is the truck starts to heat up as the fan won't turn anymore.
 

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I put my Stock Tune back in to cut down on the Fan Coming on until I can get the 170 T-stat or get Torrie to adjust my tune for a Normal T-Stat and Normal Fan Temps..
 

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Can someone explain to me how these "thermostats" work. I've been told they are weir stats. I don't understand how they work as they never close. There is fluid always flowing through them.

I've been told basically all they do is tell the sensor the truck is getting hot so it dumps more fuel into the engine to cool it as gas is fairly cool. I don't really believe the guy that told me this as he got the information from someone else and neither have experience with these trucks, but may have experience with these "thermostats". I don't see how that cools an engine because to me more fuel=bigger explosion in the block.

I also don't get how a 170 degree thermostat differs from the stock 185 the truck comes with. It doesn't open and close so I don't get it. It seems pretty basic as there are not any moving parts. All I can guess is the copper "nipple" works with the sensor somehow.

Am I missing something obvious or are these 170 "thermostats" not necessary as the flow of fluid never stops anyway? :shrug:
Anybody? Anything?


The first step in becoming a post wh0re is quoting your own post! :biggrin:
 

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I can't explain it as well as others, but I'll give it a try. The thermostat has no direct connection to the temp sensor. The factory thermostat (I believe) is a 195 degree unit. Below 195 degrees, it limits the flow of coolant through it forcing the coolant inside the engine to remain inside the engine, thus heating up the engine faster.

Once the temperature of the coolant approaches 195 degrees, the thermostat begins to open to allow coolant flow through the radiator. Once the thermostat is fully open, it stays fully open and doesn't do anything more until you shut the engine down, then it will slowly close again over about an hour.

Putting a 170 degree thermostat into the engine without any other changes will only succeed in having the thermostat open earlier, when the temperature reaches 170 degrees instead of waiting until it hits 195 degrees. Once it is open, it is open and does little more to vary the temperature of the engine. That job belongs to the fan.

If you get a performance tune, the fan will kick on earlier than it normally would, say at 175 degrees to keep the engine running cooler. With a performence tune, the fan will run more frequently to keep the engine running cooler.

From what I've learned over the last year, these engines LIKE heat, and perform better at higher temperatures. Personally, I run a 170 degree thermostat and a tune to keep my temps around 180 degrees. I feel this will increase the longevity of all my underhood components. At PCB, my temps were running 190 degrees in town, and I creeped up to 200 degrees on the way to the track. Course, I was trying to keep up with the pack who were all running considerably faster than the posted limit at times.

One last note, if you were to run a tune that cools the engine, but don't change your thermostat, the fan will be running trying to cool the engine down to 180 degrees, yet the thermostat will prevent this from happening. All you'll succeed in doing is wearing down your poor fan. If you run the tune, get the thermostat (umm, Chief, you read that??)
 
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